Molten chocolate cakes have made a huge splash in restaurants in recent years. I love the idea but I am not always thrilled with the taste or texture. Even after playing around and trying to develop a recipe for this book, I was not satisfied. When I was about to give up, my food guru and food stylist, Melanie Dubberley, suggested I try using my favorite brownie recipe and just undercook it. I turned to Fishbein Brownies, in our family for generations, beloved by literally hundreds of eaters, and gave the theory a try. Less a molten cake, more of a soufflé, call it what you want, it was spectacular. Here was the chocolate flavor I was looking for and the warm runny center that is the signature of this dessert.

• 4 ounces good-quality semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate, such as Noblesse
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter or margarine
• 4 large eggs
• 1 1/2 cups sugar, plus more for coating ramekins
• 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 450°F. Generously coat 8 (6.8-ounce) ramekins with nonstick cooking spray, and lightly coat them with granulated sugar. Hold a ramekin on its side. Tap the sides, turning the ramekin to coat the sides with sugar as well. Repeat with remaining ramekins. (If you use larger ramekins you will get fewer servings.)

Break the chocolate into small pieces; place it and the butter or margarine in a small microwave-safe dish. Microwave on medium power for 15-second intervals, stirring between, until the chocolate is completely melted.

In the bowl of an electric stand mixer, beat the eggs on high speed until foamy. Slowly pour in the sugar, and continue beating until very fluffy and pale yellow. On low speed, stir in the flour and vanilla, until thoroughly combined. Increase speed to high, and while beating, slowly drizzle in the melted chocolate mixture. Once added, beat until all the chocolate is incorporated, about 1 minute.

For ease of pouring, transfer the batter into a large measuring cup. Fill each ramekin halfway. Set the ramekins onto a baking sheet, and bake for 14-15 minutes until the tops are brown and the centers are warm.

(Alternatively, the filled ramekins can be refrigerated. Just leave at room temperature for 30 minutes before baking.) Serve immediately, being cautious as the ramekins will be hot!